Zomer Fall 2025: Opposite Day

Philipp Plein monogram-jacquard Bomber Jacket Black

You’d think those selected among this year’s LVMH Prize for Young Designers semifinalists would want everything to be right. Not so Zomer’s Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha. From starting the fall show with its finale to the clothes themselves, the duo executed everything about their fall collection in a game of Opposite Day. “The initial idea was to go back in time and redo things, rewind, upside down,” Aitouganov said backstage. That led them to consider how clothing could be repurposed for back-to-front wear, before diving headlong into upside-down and inside-out permutations. Par for the course were witty and surreal touches. Take a fringe dress teased out of curling ribbon, collars appearing on trouser hems and cummerbund-style belts or just handles that came with key fob and other charms dangling from them, as is customary these days. That was “an imaginary bag, with all our money in it,” joked Aitouganov. You May Also Like But they didn’t distract from the pair’s aptitude for eye-catching cuts that were smart and sharp whichever way they were worn. Dresses, already emerging as a bestselling category alongside shirting, according to Aitouganov, were teased from pinstriped shirts, trenches or blazers.   A collaboration with knitwear artist Cécile Feilchenfeldt also yielded lush results, such as a striped number that was all spiky nylon on the outside and skin-soft silkiness on the inside. Along with their funny bone, the only other thing that stayed firmly in place was Zomer’s fast-cemented place as the arty-cool new kid on the block.

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